Author Mike Berg was here

As we mark the 70th anniversary of the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, it is a good time to write about the reason my Dad, Mike Berg, joined us in Japan. His main purpose was to see Hachimenzan Peace Park just outside of Nakatsu, Oita, Japan.  To fully understand it, you need a little history. 



My dad’s friend Ted Baumgarten had a brother named Otto who was involved in a B29 airplane crash here  in May 1945 – just a few months before the end of World War II.  As amazing as it seems, the people of the small village on the mountain marked the crash site and built a small monument to those American soldiers. 
When we lived in Japan, Dad sent us a newspaper article from Ted & Otto’s hometown describing the Peace Park that had been built over the course of several years on the site.  We realized it was about two hours by car from where we lived. 

One weekend in August 1998, we decided to see if we could find it, whatever “it” was.  We were amazed to find not only the marker and the Peace Park but also a small museum which had been developed several years after the war in collaboration with a local US Army base.  We were so touched by it that we sent videos and photos and attempted to describe it all to my Dad so he could tell Ted.

Over the years, Dad began researching and eventually corresponding with a number of people regarding the crash, the monument and the soldiers who were involved.  Eventually, he put all the information together in a book called “The Crew of the Empire Express and Peace on a Quiet Mountain in Japan”.  He has shared the book with many family members of the soldiers as well as others interested in history from this time period. 
When we decided to go to Japan, we were thrilled when he said he wanted to join us for this part of the trip.  Through his communication with Dr. Mahito Kawashima, a member of the Nakatsu Rotary Club who had furnished him with photographs and information, we agreed on a day to visit the Peace Park.
 
Dr. Kawashima arranged a wonderful day for us and was an amazing host.  We started the day at his hospital where we enjoyed lunch as well as his performance on a traditional flute.  Dr. Kawashima is a real Renaissance man who has so many interests.  I asked him if he ever slept.  He is an amazing man! 
We, along with Dr. and Mrs. Kawashima and our translator Satoko (for whom we are eternally grateful), were driven to the museum where a small entourage was waiting for us.  They were members of the local Rotary Club as well as others involved with the Peace Park. 

One of my favorite parts of the day was when we were introduced to the man who takes care of the monument and Peace Park. Even though I couldn’t understand everything he said (until Satoko translated), I could see the pride he had in caring for this important place. 
He is a local farmer and told us his father had also cared for the monument.  He didn’t say that his father erected the original marker but based on his age and how remote an area this is, his father must have at least lived in the small village when the plane crash happened.    

A copy of Dad’s book is now an official part of the museum.  We had a chance to sign the guestbook and look around before heading across the road to the Peace Park.   

Dr. Kawashima, Dad and the Caretaker

Across the road was the Hachimenzan Peace Park.  When we lived in Japan, we found it by find the kanji (symbol) for Peace on a map.  Seventeen years later, we were able to locate it on Google Maps.  History aside, it is a beautiful park with several statues, a Buddhist temple, a replica aircraft and a children’s area.   

As we stood looking at monuments, I was touched by how well maintained it was as well as the beautiful setting with the ocean in the distance.  Dr. Kawashima and Dad each gave a short speech as did the President of the Nakatsu Rotary Club. Its my understanding that the Rotary Club is also involved with maintaining the area. 

The map shows the states where each soldier came from and is represented by rock sent from that state.  A lot of time and thought has gone into this memorial over many years.    

One of the monuments in the Park includes fire from the eternal flame in Hiroshima. 

Dad explained who each man was as he looked at their names on another monument. 

As I mentioned, we had quite an entourage.  In addition to the Rotary Club members, there were a few people from the area as well as two reporters from the Oita newspaper. 

We were driven farther up the hill where we came to the place marked as the official crash site.  It was very moving to be here again and think about the young soldiers who died here. 

It is also incredible to know that the local people cared enough to mark this place and remember the humans – the enemy during a long and difficult war - who died here.  Knowing this area was bombed due to local targets and many from the area fought in the war, I continue to be amazed.  

To mark the visit, a commemorative Sakura (cherry tree) was planted and we all took turns with the shovels. Dr. Kawashima informed us that someone will send us a picture of this tree every year. 

The Rotary President and Dad unveiled a sign which stands next to the tree.  It mentions the book and the date of Author Mike Berg’s visit.  We could tell that everyone involved was touched that he took the time and effort to come here. 

Following more speeches, the reporters asked more questions and then Dad posed for a well-constructed photo to go with the newspaper article.
It was a well photographed day.  In addition to our two cameras, Dr. Kawashima carried his own personal camera and another man served as our driver/photographer. 

After leaving the mountain, we all visited the kamikaze museum which has been built in the neighboring town of Usa (yes, it’s U-S-A…oh, the irony…).  The nearby airstrip was the training ground for the kamikaze pilots and the target of the Empire Express’ mission when it crashed.

This plane was used in a recent movie about kamikaze pilots.  Apparently it was well known as several people we talked to about it had heard of the movie.

The 5-7 mentioned here is the Empire Express raid. 

After visiting the museum, we went to the airstrip to see the bunkers where the kamikaze planes were kept. 

This man, whose name I may have somewhere, joined us for the entire day.  I think he was a commander in the local unit of the Japan Air Self-Defense.  He seems to be about dad’s age so I don't think he was involved in the war but you can tell when two people share a common interest.  At one point during the evening, I think Dad and Doug were made honorary members of the Air Self-Defense force. There was a speech and they have the hats to prove it!

Following a few more sights, we were invited to a wonderful dinner at a traditional restaurant owned by Dr. and Mrs. Kawashima’s daughter.  The guests were Dr. and Mrs. Kawashima, several members of the Rotary Club, Satoko, and the Commander. 

There were more speeches followed by the traditional “kampai” led by the President of the Rotary Club.  There were rounds of beer, sake, wine, and shochu to go along with the amazing meal.  

The meal was served in the traditional manner where each dish is brought out separately.  We think we counted 12 courses, each one more amazing and artfully presented than the previous one. 

At the end of the meal, we posed for a commemorative photo before catching the train back to Fukuoka.  Each of us left the party feeling grateful for the day we had. 
It was amazing that people can care for people - even their enemy - in a time of war.  We are thankful for the opportunity to meet the people who have cared for these memories all these years and for those who continue to keep them alive in honor of peace.  We hope to visit Mike Berg’s tree on the Quiet Mountain many times!